Hot Springs National Park

HOW TO DO THE PARK IN ONE HOUR: Go to the Buckstaff Bathhouse, and get yourself a traditional whirlpool bath and massage. Buckstaff is the only active Bathhouse in the National Park itself administered by National Park staff. (There are three other bathhouses in the vicinity, if you'd like to give you don't want your money to go to the park. And enjoy a cocktail after.) Afterwards, take a relaxing stroll along the Promenade, or Bathhouse Row, your choice.

HOW TO DO THE PARK IN A DAY: This is so easy. You're going to want to visit the baths, but I recommend doing that toward the end of the day. If you like start your day at the northernmost tip of North Mountain road. There's a scenic viewpoint there (just above Goat Rock) which is the best place to watch the sunrise. Take the winding treelined road up to Hot Springs Mountain Tower for a vew of the entire park and surrounding areas. The second floor has a lot of historical exhibits, as well as an interesting video about hometown hero William Jefferson Clinton. On a hot day, you may find the air-conditioned views here, preferable to the open air view one floor above. It'll cost you $7 to get in to the elevator, but you can go up and down as often as you like. You can go for a walk on one of the hiking trails, if you like - but really, who does? Now it's down to business. Head back to down town for a tour of bathhouse row. Most of the Bathhouses are just for admiring the facade. You can take a self-guided tour of the historic Fordyce Bathhouse. The attendants will tell you the 3rd floor stained glass ceiling is the best part, but don't rush on up there too quick. You'll enjoy your tour better if you start on the first floor, and work your way up through the second to the third. It's a better payoff. The stained-glass decorated game room - where men and women relaxed after their bath - is lovely, but I was most impressed with the old-fashioned gymnasium at the back of the third floor. Wooden dumbbells? Those Native Americans could make anything out of tree bark, couldn't they? Head back outside and check out the hot water fountains in front of the old entrance to the park. Try to imagine how freaked out you would be if you lived in a time with no running water, and these guys just had it hot coming out of their fountains. Holy conspicuous waste! The display spring behind Maurice Bathhouse was my favorite part. This is the closest you'll come to an actual hot spring in Hot Springs. Now'd be a good time to head down to Buckstaff Bathhouse for a traditional whirlpool bath and massage. No, you don't need to bring any supplies. Yes, you wil be naked. Enjoy. After your massage take a relaxing stroll up the Promenade. Start at the south end to get the full experience. The Promenade was designed to make a smooth transition from the more architectural "urban" end to the more tree-lined end which culminates in the park itself. But that's okay, you don't need to take a hike. Toward the end of the Promenade you can turn off onto Arlington Lawn where a beautiful wall of nuovoculite dribbles hot spring water into two large wading pools in the manicured lawn. But don't wade in it. If you feel like another foray into nature, you can end your day on the West Mountain. The summit has a "Sunset Trail" that might be a romantic way to end the day. I wouldn't know. I'm too relaxed from the whirling waters. There are a couple places to buy souvenir jugs for hot water. (All the water in the park is free to the public and available at a number of taps.) You will be tempted to fill you jug with hot water - like it says on the label. But the best water in the park is said to be from the cool waters of Whittington Spring (just outside the Park Maintenance building on Whittington Avenue.)

HOW TO HURT YOURSELF IN THE PARK This is easy. Go to Arlington Lawn, at the north end of Bathhouse Row. There you'll find a big wading pool fed by the hot water cascading off of Tufa Rock. Hop in and give yourself an impromptu hot tub. Youch!

FOOD Not a lot of food in this park, but there are restaurants and fudge shops right across the street on Central. And there's plenty of mineral water - hot and cold - to be had almost everywhere.